Earth, Air, Fire, Water..and Fashion: The Fifth Element
The Fifth Element is for all intents and purposes, the most iconic sci-fi film of them all – Sorry, Trekkies. Although at times the film is undeniably cheesy, it is unquestionable that it subverted many conventions of the sci-fi genre at the time, offering an innovative take on the genre that is still influential to this day.
Though it's argued that the plot of The Fifth Element may not be the strongest, the sheer amount of creativity on display definitely makes up for any shortcomings. Despite its insane visuals and a lineup of A-list actors, it’s the time transcending costume design that has stolen the hearts of viewers.
From the film’s inception, director Luc Besson envisioned no one but the renowned ‘enfant terrible,’ Jean Paul Gaultier to be the project's head costume designer; citing that no one could encapsulate a futuristic New York better than Gaultier, and as the record shows JPG did not disappoint.
The film contained over a thousand costumes, every detail covered meticulously, right down to the extras; ensuring the realism of twenty-third century New York was not dispelled. According to Thierry Maxime-Loriot, curator for the Montreal Museum of Fine Art for Gaultier’s Retrospective, costumes of that multitude are the equivalent of 10 collections, as such [Gaultier] may have drawn 5000 sketches before narrowing it down to what we see in the film.
The pieces took inspiration from trends of the period, some subsuming themes present in Gaultier’s previous collections while incorporating a futuristic vision and non-traditional materials such as plexiglass, rubber and neoprene. Besson allowed Gaultier to unleash his imagination to the fullest extent, which truly tied together the elements of the film.
The blurring of gender normative fashion is evident in the style of the backless vest dawned by Bruce Will’s character Korben Dallas, and especially in the array of Chris Tucker’s Character, Ruby Rhodes’ skin-tight jumpsuits. Through these outfits, Gaultier transforms a hyper-sexual character who boasts about his female conquests into an androgynous trendsetter. Although gender normative fashion isn’t so easily defined today, the representation of futuristic characters with clear indifference between masculine and feminine was deemed controversial at the time.
The film’s most iconic costume is without a doubt Leeloo’s ( Mila Jovovich) white bandage style bodysuit which takes direct inspiration from Gaultier’s underwear as outwear collections. The getup had a groundbreaking impact on not only the film but a seemingly infinite number of cosplays and Halloween costumes to come.
Another noteworthy mention is the re-imagination of futuristic uniforms, the film is riddled with characters adorned in plexiglass, rubber and neoprene so as to continue with the pragmatism of future couture. The favourite of these characters are the flight attendants and the Mcdonald’s girls. Decked out in body-hugging neoprene outfits, these characters are charming, and only exist to serve. Despite the undeniable cuteness of these fits, these characters are have been deliberately framed as objects through the emphasis on their sexuality and the purposeful framing of parts of their bodies to portray that even in the 23rd century service workers can’t catch a break.
After 25 years, the impact of The Fifth Element is still evident across the fashion world, with notable campaigns and collections being made in homage to the film by designers Jeremy Scott for Moschino, Alexander McQueen and DKNY.