ANTARTICA – A VOYAGE TO THE END OF THE WORLD

FEATURE & PHOTOGRAPHY DOROTA CZERNY UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY KIRILL EGOROV

Embark on a thrilling expedition to the southernmost continent of Antarctica with GUE Vice President Dorota Czerny as your guide. This awe-inspiring adventure aboard the expedition vessel Ortelius, promises to take you to the end of the world where the spirit of exploration still thrives and human impact is minimised.

The journey to Antarctica involves crossing the treacherous Drake Passage, which can be challenging. However, with rigorous safety protocols in place, passengers can rest assured that their safety is a top priority.

As tourism in Antarctica becomes increasingly popular, tour operators are implementing strict policies and regulations to preserve the environment. This pristine wilderness is a unique destination where travellers can witness the beauty of untouched nature, but it is also a fragile ecosystem that requires responsible exploration.

The tall bow of the expedition vessel Ortelius towers above the pier. In the late afternoon, as the sun slowly sets, the sky becomes a brilliant gold and a cold wind is picking up. It finally hits me, “This is actually happening! I am going on an adventure far, far away.” We are in Ushuaia, at the end of the world in Argentina’s Tierra Del Fuego, an archipelago shared by Chile and Argentina at South America’s southernmost tip. It’s known for its dramatic landscapes of snowy mountains, glaciers, tundra, and windsculpted trees. Its main island, Isla Grande, is home to the Argentine resort town of Ushuaia. Sometimes called “the End of the World,” Ushuaia is a gateway to the region and Antarctica to the south.

The sturdy ship will soon leave port to bring us to the most faraway place on the planet: Antarctica.

Antarctica is breathtakingly magnificent and is the only remaining continent where human impact is minimised, even though the spirit of exploration is alive and well. It is no one’s land – or everyone’s land – as the nations decided it would be an international land. As such, it is kept in the most pristine condition possible. The Antarctic Treaty of 1959 aimed to demilitarise Antarctica; to establish it as a zone free of nuclear tests or radioactive waste; to ensure that it was used for peaceful purposes only; to promote international scientific cooperation; and to set aside disputes over territorial sovereignty.

Despite its desolation, Antarctica is becoming a trendy tourist destination. More and bigger cruise ships are travelling across the Drake Passage, ferrying hundreds of passengers who want to experience the last frontier. Luckily, the tour operators who run trips and expeditions to Antarctica have agreed on a set of policies and rules that all operators must abide by.They seek to protect the continent from human impact, and they make every effort to prevent any activity that could influence the pristine and sensitive balance of the Antarctic environment. Both the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO) and the Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators (AECO) cooperate with the United Nations to create awareness campaigns, inform all visitors about the fragility of this environment, and bring attention to the importance of safeguarding it. All visits to Antarctica should follow the Antarctic Treaty, its protocol on environmental protection, and relevant measures and resolutions adopted at Antarctic Treaty Consultative Meetings (ATCM). Any visitors who intend to set foot on the continent must first disinfect and decontaminate all items that may come in direct physical contact with the environment, e.g. ,boots, gloves, all external layers of clothing, tripods, camera bags, backpacks, hiking gear, and dive gear. Every particle, tiny seed, clump of soil, piece of plant, or any other substance is brushed off, vacuumed away, and meticulously cleaned. Contamination and the introduction of invasive species to the fragile continent must be rigorously guarded against in order to protect the sensitive balance in Antarctica.

Oceanwide Expeditions specialises in polar trips and was recently awarded the honour of the best polar expedition tour operator. Having originated in the Netherlands with a home harbour in Vlissingen, they own four sturdy ice-rated vessels deployed in both polar regions (Arctic and Antarctic) depending on the season, i.e., wherever it is currently summer. The ships all bear the names of Dutch polar explorers – Hondius, Plancius, Janssonius, and Ortelius.

Oceanwide prides itself on organising expeditions with elements of exploration, discovery, and learning. Visitors can enjoy landings, kayaking, overnight camping, trekking, rigid inflatable boat (RIB) cruises, snorkelling, and scuba diving. The Oceanwide experience is quite the opposite from those on big cruises, where visitors only experience the beauty of Antarctica while staying on board throughout the journey, protected from the polar elements and separated from the direct experience of its uniqueness.

On board the Oceanwide ships, there is always an international crew of experienced expedition leaders and guides who are knowledgeable about the environment, including the wildlife encountered, not only in Antarctica, but also while crossing the Drake Passage. But what is exceptional and notable is their fervid regard for the polar continents. They dedicate their lives to sharing knowledge, building awareness, educating, providing safe experiences, and protecting this environment. They come from all backgrounds and countries, have unique expertise, and are so eager to share their knowledge that questions always lead to long conversations and discussions. The guides range from a young generation of enthusiastic scientists in their 20s to well-seasoned experts in their 70s.

The two-day crossing of the Drake Passage can be cool (smooth as a lake) or cool (rough as hell). But with every hour sailing south, we are travelling farther away from not only everyday conveniences but also the safety net of the modern world – mobile connections, hospitals, pharmacies, and emergency services. Before the engines even start, the first briefing on the ship is about safety. Any breach that results in an accident, will mean turning the ship around and sailing back – immediately and without negotiations. This briefing produces the profound realisation that any twisted ankle on the stairs or any accidental fall – either on the outdoor decks or in a cabin – resulting in injury, will mean the end of the trip for all 120 passengers on-board. Everyone is personally responsible for their own safety and for following the protocols. Boring? Not at all –just responsible.

As the crossing continues, the days are filled with lectures on wildlife, icebergs, the environment, and the history of Antarctic exploration. Each day ends with a daily recap before dinner, summarising all we have done, learned, and achieved, and, most importantly, reviewing the weather forecast for the next twelve hours. If the weather allows, passengers can enjoy venturing to the outside decks to take in the magnificent views of the sunset, albatrosses gracefully flying past the ship, and the vastness of the horizon. But, the most unforgettable moment is when you hear an excited announcement on the intercom, “We have our first iceberg on the port side. Tomorrow we wake up in Antarctica.”

“Good morning, good morning, good morning.” The soft voice of our expedition leader, Sara Jenner, woke everyone up over the intercom. “Today is Saturday, the 7th of January, and we are just arriving in Orne Harbour. It is a chilly 3°C/37°F outside, with overcast skies and rain. Breakfast will be served in 30 minutes. Stand by for the announcement of our first landing of the day.” The wake-up announcement was a daily routine. And no one really minded that the wake-up time was at 6am, 5am, or 4:30am, as the sun was nearly always up. Sarah taught us the most important thing about each day’s expedition, and her guidance was often applicable to life beyond the Antarctic. “We take the days here one by one, even half day by half day. We never know what will happen next – weather can change, the wind might pick up, and ice may float into the bay on the landing side. If something breaks, or an accident happens, we will need to turn around. Therefore we use the time now in the best way we can. Never assume you will have the same opportunity tomorrow; it is now or maybe never.”

The whole passenger group was divided into different activities – people who did only landings, a group of kayakers, snorkellers, and scuba divers. Each group could participate in their activities twice daily if (and only if) the conditions were favourable. The landings usually lasted two to three hours, and everyone was reminded that every activity could be called off due to weather conditions. Before each landing, the expedition crew got into zodiacs, checked the landing sites, and reported whether it was safe to proceed.Then, whoever wanted to go ashore was prompted to make their way to the gangways, board the zodiacs, and head off for adventures on land. Divers, however, had a different schedule, since we could both dive and do landings afterwards, being conveniently dressed in a drysuit and warm undergarments.

The expedition’s diving team was led by Henrik Enckell, an experienced dive instructor and rebreather instructor trainer. He was one of the first to bring tourists diving in Antarctica. He has not only tremendous experience diving in the polar regions, but is also coolheaded, realistic, safe, and open to adventures. His team consisted of three additional guides – Roman, Peter, and Arne. Their main job was not actually guiding divers in the water but making sure we were dropped in good spots and, most importantly, picked up! No one wanted to drift in 2°C/35°F water for longer than absolutely necessary or be cut off from the group by a floating iceberg.

None of the Oceanwide vessels is specifically designed for diving, so gear and setup are arranged trip-by-trip if divers are on board. The changing area was in a helicopter hangar on the top deck, where all the drysuits and undergarments had a chance to dry and the divers were protected from the environment. After being assembled, the dive gear was stored in the dive zodiacs.

At the beginning of each day, the expedition leader evaluated conditions for the planned expedition; Sara always had the last word.

Once she gave everyone the final “go,” we dressed (careful not to forget any of our precious thermal layers), waited to lower our four diving zodiacs into the water (with the gear already in them), then boarded and cruised to the dive site. Those sites were not set in stone, as the exact location depended on the weather and ice conditions on the surface. The maximum recommended depth for dives was 18m/60ft, and the dive time at around 30 minutes, and all were done on single 12L tanks. While one may think these dives are short, we were limited by a few factors. The water temperature is an obvious limitation, and hypothermia is a realistic concern. But the main risks were associated with Antarctica’s very dynamic surface conditions: a massive ice floe could unexpectedly drift over the divers (obstructing their ascent without warning), or icebergs and ice blocks could drift and separate the divers from the zodiacs. The remoteness of the area also played a role in conservatism – any dive injury (like DCS) would mean turning the ship around and at least a three-day trip back to Ushuaia (in the best case scenario).

The underwater scenery was ever-changing – from kelp fields teaming with colours to sponge and kelp-covered walls and whale skeletons in Whalers Bay at Deception Island. The most spectacular were the iceberg dives, where the brilliant aquamarine blue of the dense ice is captivating; the shapes and oddly structured surfaces create an unforgettable experience. We also managed to dive twice in Foyn Harbour. On this site, the whalingprocessing shipwreck of the Governoren lies at rest, mainly submerged, but with some of the ship visible above the surface.

While there are no polar bears in Antarctica (polar bears live in Arctic polar regions), the Antarctic has another symbolic creature – the penguin. In the areas we visited, we mainly saw Chinstrap, Gentoo, and Adelie penguins. They are cute, funny birds, but the trip busted some myths about penguins. The penguin colonies are vast, loud, and… smelly. Penguins may have white bellies, but only after they take the plunge and wash off the colony residues.

In terms of marine mammals, we encountered Weddell seals, young elephant seals, many Antarctic minke whales, and humpbacks. Our experiences with the whales are unforgettable, as we could hear them breathing from afar, which allowed us to spot them not by sight but by hearing them breathe, especially in the silence and calm of the Antarctic, which are profound.

All of those encounters were above water. Only a few lucky divers saw a leopard seal briefly (very briefly!) underwater and then just a glimpse of diving penguins (as they are extremely quick and rare to catch underwater).

The adventure in Antarctica slowly came to an end as the shores of the Beagle Channel closed in and the setting sun painted pale pinks, violets, and oranges in the sky. The port of Ushuaia grew closer. Faith Ortins, the founder of BlueGreen Expeditions, says, “After visiting one of the Earth’s Poles, you become unbalanced. The other Pole is calling you in, and you feel that you are incomplete. And when you get to the other Pole, then you become “bi-Polar.”You are at peace – balanced again. Until the call of polar adventures returns. And then you just have to go.”

Am I “bipolar”? Not yet. But I am still in awe of the power and the magnificence of this place, as well as the peacefulness and tranquillity. I felt spellbound by the pristine white slopes and the brilliant aquamarine icebergs, as well as the sound of ice-shelf calving. I was mesmerised by white clouds atop snowy white mountains making it impossible to tell where the land ended and the sky began!

The silence was broken only by whales surfacing to breathe in the distance and the soft rippling of water rushing along the ship’s bow as we glided calmly along the shores of the last continent: Antarctica.

Dorota Czerny is a highly experienced diver who fell in love with the ocean in 1996. She transitioned from teaching at a university to teaching scuba diving due to her passion for the sport.

As Vice President of Global Underwater Explorers, she is highly skilled in technical, cave, and rebreather diving, and is dedicated to developing the organisation’s educational component.

Her focus is on creating a new generation of explorers and young scientists with GUE’s NextGen Scholarship programme. Dorota’s dedication to diving education extends beyond her work with GUE as she actively explores caves and wrecks around the world.

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