Alagoas
If you're wondering what you can do around São Miguel dos Milagres, you will find a few suggestions and recommendations here.
Overshadowed by big Bahia to the south, the tiny state of Alagoas (around the size of Belgium) has long been overlooked by travelers. But it's a tendency that's changing – in the past few years, capital city Maceió has emerged as a buzzing vacation destination for Brazilian tourists.
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Still, despite the influx of ecofriendly pousadas and stylish restaurants, there remain plenty of isolated, paradise-like stretches of white sand, emerald waters, swaying palms and quaint villages along Alagoas' coast, all within easy reach from Maceió .Inland travel appeals to history-minded travelers: Penedo is a charming riverfront town with picturesque colonial churches and hilly cobblestone streets and Piranhas is set agains the background of the Canyons of the São Francisco river.
Many travelers zip up the coastline from Maceió with one destination in mind: Maragogi, and its spectacular offshore coral reef and snorkeling site. But if you have more than a day or two, it's worthwhile to slow down and explore some of the rustic beach villages along this stretch of Alagoas' northernmost shoreline with its fluffy white sands, green waters and tall coconut palms. |
Maceió
One of the hot, up-and-coming destinations in the Northeast, Maceió is a navigable modern city set on some truly beautiful beachfront. Maceió may not be well-known to international tourists – yet – but Brazilians have rediscovered it as a vacation getaway, and the past few years have seen a boom in domestic tourism. The city has a small but buzzing dining and drinking scene, a new bike-share system, and friendly, laid-back streets that close to traffic for street parties on Sundays; it’s also the gateway to wonderfully idyllic shorelines to the north and south.
On the city’s beaches, vivid, emerald-hued water laps the powdery sands that are lined with palms and brightly painted jangadas (traditional sailboats). By night, locals follow the meandering beachside path as it weaves past thatched-roof restaurants and palm-shaded football pitches. Maceió’s sights are relatively few, leaving you plenty of time to catch some rays and soak up the relaxed atmosphere. Number 5 on the map above. |
Maceió's airport is named Zumbi dos Palmares (IATA: MCZ; Tel. 82 214-4000) receives flights from every large Brazilian city as well as some international flights. There are plenty of taxis at the airport's arrivals area. Some travelers on a tight budget prefer to take the bus to the downtown area, then a cheaper taxi ride to their final destination. A taxi from the airport to Ponta Verde runs around R$35.
Bomfim buses go to Salvador (R$92 to R$140, 11 hours, four daily) and Aracaju (R$43 to R$70, five hours, four daily). Real Alagoas goes north to Recife (R$30 to R$56, four to five hours, 10 daily) and offers more infrequent service south to Penedo (R$25, 2½ hours). The quickest way to get to Penedo is on one of the colectivo minibuses that departs from the Posto Sobral gas station in the city center. The ride lasts about 2¼ hours and costs R$18; the same route provides access to Coruripe (R$10) and Praia do Gunga (R$8) as well as several small towns along the way. Ask your taxi driver to take you to the departure spot for colectivos to Penedo – from Maceió's bus station, the fare is about R$15. DEF runs meandering buses up the coast to Maragogi and Porto de Pedras, stopping at many of the beach villages along the way. Fares range from R$2.50 (to nearby Paripuera, one hour) to R$12.50 (to Maragogi, 3½ hours). There are four daily departures to Maragogi, and four making the return trip; six daily buses go to and from Porto de Pedras. The quickest way to get to Maragogi is a taxi colectivo (R$30, two hours). These depart from a gas station north of Maceió - again, you'll have to communicate with your taxi driver to get there, asking for 'colectivos a Maragogi.' These shared taxis require four passengers to depart; they're quicker and cooler than the official bus lines. |
Ipioca |
Barra de Santo Antônio |
Ipioca is Maceió's most northern neighbourhoods. If you want the sleepy small fishing village feel, ddeserted turquoise beaches not far from some of Maceió's best restaurants - this makes for the a great day trip. You just need to board one of the many regular buses with destination "Ipioca" at the front. Number 4 on the map
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Heading north from Maceió, the first town you'll pass through is Barra de Santo Antônio, a mellow fishing village built along the mouth of the Rio Jirituba. Just south of the village is Praia Tabuba, a pretty, tranquil bay with a few bars and a couple of pousadas. There are reef tidal pools off the beach – ask at the bars about a ride there by jangada (sailboat). Next is Barra do Camaragibe, an idyllic fishing village on the edge of a small, reef-laden bay. Jangadas make trips south to Praia do Morro, a deserted beach with cliffs and clear waters. The jewel of the region is the amazing Praia do Carro Quebrado, accessible only in your own vehicule or by Buggies from Ilha da Crôa. Number 3 on the map above.
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Ecological Route
The stretch from Barra do Camaragibe to Porto de Pedras is a lovely place to treat yourself. São Miguel dos Milagres has fine beaches with warm, shallow seas protected by offshore reefs. Splurge on a night or two in a stylish, environmentally conscious bungalow at Pousada da Amendoeira, which also has an excellent restaurant specializing in gourmet seafood and organic regional dishes. If you're sticking around for a few days, eco-minded tour outfitter Gato do Mato runs highly recommended half-day excursions, ranging from river kayaking to snorkeling to oyster collecting; contact the agency ahead of time, as a minimum number of participants is required for most trips. Porto de Pedras is a sweet little fishing town and, as it is the most established on this stretch of road, it boasts a few shops, bars and restaurants, plus a hilltop lighthouse offering great views.
There are a variety of transport options to reach northern destinations. Real Alagoas runs buses to Porto de Pedras (R$20, 3½ hours, five daily) via Barra do Camaragibe, São Miguel dos Milagres and Porto da Rua from the bus station in Maceió. Similar service by bus line DEF, as well as minibuses, bestas and colectivo taxis traveling the same route, can be caught at the posto Mar Azul at the northern edge of Maceió (ask your taxi driver to take you). Travel between these little towns is extremely easy up until about 7pm. Number 2 on the map.
There are a variety of transport options to reach northern destinations. Real Alagoas runs buses to Porto de Pedras (R$20, 3½ hours, five daily) via Barra do Camaragibe, São Miguel dos Milagres and Porto da Rua from the bus station in Maceió. Similar service by bus line DEF, as well as minibuses, bestas and colectivo taxis traveling the same route, can be caught at the posto Mar Azul at the northern edge of Maceió (ask your taxi driver to take you). Travel between these little towns is extremely easy up until about 7pm. Number 2 on the map.
Maragogi
Maragogi is a small beach town with a cluster of pousadas and restaurants along its waterfront, old-fashioned sailboats bobbing in the sea, and wide, flat beaches where local kids play soccer every evening at sunset. Though these beaches aren't anything special, Maragogi is one of the most visited destinations in the state, thanks to its major draw: the sandbars and reefs that make up the Galés marine reserve, 6km offshore, where the underwater scene is rich with colorful sea life.
Further north, in Japaratinga, shallow waters are protected by coral reefs, and the beaches are backed by coconut trees and fishing huts. Under the moonlight, you can walk a couple of kilometers into the sea. Kombi vans regularly make the 10km trip north to Maragogi (R$7). Many visitors visit the reserve on day trips from Maceió, but Maragogi is also a friendly destination to spend a night or two. Trips to the reserve (R$65) are easily organized through beachfront restaurants or hotels – the excursion is heavily advertised left and right. The helpful travel agency Costazul can help arrange excursions and book rooms, too. On the waterfront, smart-looking Pousada Olho D'água offers a terrace overlooking the ocean, comfortable rooms with private balconies (some have views) and a lovely swimming pool. Another excellent option – a five-minute walk north of the plaza in a residential area – is Pousada Maragolfinho, with spacious guest rooms, modern showers, nice linens and a big breakfast spread. Several seafood restaurants on the waterfront offer Bahian food, pizza, fresh juices and cocktails, plus relaxed outdoor seating on the beach. Restaurante Frutas do Mar is a locals' classic. Maragogi has a Banco do Brasil with an ATM. For more eating and sleeping options and additional tourist information (including a section in English), log onto www.maragogionline.com.br. |
The quickest way to get to Maceió from Maragogi is by taxi colectivo (R$30, two hours). Go to Maragogi's main square and look for the taxi stand. Each taxi transports four passengers, so there's often a short delay while the driver waits for other travelers to show up. The trip takes just over two hours, thanks to the race-car-style drivers who weave in and out of traffic along the coastal roads.
DEF has four daily departures from the main square to Maceió (R$12.50, 3½ hours) and the beach villages south of Maragogi. Travel agencies also provide private transfer, but as they charge an exorbitant price of R$170 for a solo traveler, consider it a last resort. Number 1 on the map above. |
Lagoas Mundau and ManguabaThis stretch of coast is characterized by small, quaint coastal villages – some with amazing beaches – surrounded by wide stretches of coconut plantations and two enourmous and beaufitul lagoons, Mundau and Manguaba. These laggons give the state its name, since "Alagoas" means "Lagoons" in Latin. Most of the tourists pass by on the way to Praia do Francês and Barra de São Miguel, but the laggons are also an attraction in itself. You can take a boar tour around the many islets, visit the mangrooves and have a local-flavoured meal in Massagueira - astrecht of local savoury restaurants on Manguaba's eastern lakeside. Number 6.
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Marechal Deodoro and Praia do FrancêsOn the banks of the tranquil Lagoa Manguaba, Marechal Deodoro is a small, peaceful town with pretty churches and a few streets of colonial architecture dating back to early settlement days. Marechal served as capital of Alagoas between 1823 and 1839, and although there’s not a lot to see, it’s an easy jaunt from Maceió – and if you're heading to the beaches south of Maceió on public transportation, you'll probably pass through anyway. If you have a few minutes, check out the pretty white-and-yellow facade of the Igreja de NS da Conceição, located on top of the hill above the lagoon. If you're around on a weekend, the Saturday market, held until noon along the waterfront, is particularly lively. Arrive early in the morning to see fishermen working their nets out along the water. Number 7 on the map above.
Buses and minibuses for Marechal Deodoro (R$3, 35 minutes) via Praia do Francês depart frequently from a stop behind the Texaco petrol station (Rua Dias Cabral and Zacarias de Azevedo) southwest of Maceió’s center. Buses, Kombi vans and colectivo taxis leave from Marechal’s plaza for one of the best beaches for surfing in Brazil, Praia do Francês (R$3, 15 minutes), and for Maceió.
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Barra de São Miguel and Pontal do Coruripe
The center of this small village sits on the riverbank, facing Praia do Gunga, an idyllic, white-sand beach that curves to a point at the meeting of the Rio São Miguel and the sea. Indeed, Barra isn't much of a destination in itself: it's better known as the gateway to Praia do Gunga, where the local beaches are protected by a huge offshore reef, leaving the waters calm for bathing or kayaking. There are pousadas and tourist infrastructure in the area, clustered a few kilometers away from the dock in the neighborhood of Niquin. With an appealing swimming pool and terrace overlooking the ocean, Hotel Portal Duleste is a good option. But in general, travelers looking to overnight south of Maceió usually prefer to stay in Praia do Francês.
Boats for Praia do Gunga (R$30) leave in the morning from the town’s port. Several open-air restaurants line the harbor, catering to the tourists coming and going from the beach. During high season on Praia do Gunga, dune buggies take tourists on an hour-long adventure: you'll speed along the sands, stop to photograph the rocky dune-lined landscape, and go for a dip in a natural pool. |
Note that in Praia do Gunga, dining options are infamously overpriced: be aware that most of the barracas insist on a minimum consumption of upwards of R$50 per person. Many beachgoers prefer to bring their own picnic from Maceió, or buy simple snacks and sandwiches from the stands set up around the gigantic parking lot.
Further south (by the lighthouse in the map above) you will find Pontal do Coruripe, a traditional fishing village that sees few visitors. Pontal de Coruripe lies in an area of verdant coconut plantations, on the edge of a long, deserted beach with beautiful emerald waters. On the peaceful streets of town, women sit in front of their homes gossiping and weaving palm baskets, placemats and handbags, while out at the cove just opposite the lighthouse, fishermen guide their boats across the sunlit sea. Watch the scenery while dining on fresh seafood at Peixada da Madalena, one of a few restaurants clustered around the lighthouse. Named for the Candomble goddess of fertility, the lovely Pousada Canto de Yemanjá is worthy of a getaway: the tranquil inn, outfitted with contemporary decor and vibrant colors, is located on the beach, outside town. Transportation to and from Pontal de Coruripe is frequent but fairly informal. The coastal pinga litoral bus heading for Maceió (R$10, two hours) passes through Pontal de Coruripe at least twice daily, with more limited service on Sundays. You can also catch a daily bus to Penedo (R$14, 2½ hours) or frequent collective transport (R$9 to R$18, one hour) to Maceió – just ask around. Number 8 on the map above. |
Penedo and PiaçabuçuPenedo, known as the capital of the lower São Francisco, is the colonial masterpiece of the state and is almost unaltered by tourism. Attractions include the city’s many baroque churches and colonial buildings and the opportunity to travel the sometimes-jade-colored waters of the Rio São Francisco. Penedo’s downtown bustles with a daily market as people from surrounding villages pour in to do their shopping. Number 9 on the map.
Penedo is entirely off the beaten track and can be easily combined with a trip to the mounth of the São Francisco river, at Piaçabu, wher the second biggest river of Brazil meets the Atlatic Ocean in a miriad of sand dunes, lonely palm trees and deserted beaches.
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Piranhas and the Canyons of the São Francisco riverIf you want to see something completely different, head to Piranhas. A charming colonial town by the mighty São Francisco RIver and in the middle of the Sertão, the Brazilian semi-deserted backlands. From Piranhas you can take a boat tour through the canyons of the São Francisco; the biggest in Brazil. Number 10.
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