Before the Tour de France concludes, the professional cyclists will have circled l'Hexagone over the course of 22 days, enduring high mountain passes, bumpy cobblestones, crashes, and dramatic sprints, before gliding down the Champs-Élysées. But July 7's starting line for cycling’s ultimate endurance test is on one of the most sublime vacation spots on the French Atlantic coast: a toes-in-the-sand sliver of island paradise beloved by generations of vacationers.
Anchored off the Vendée coast about 53 miles southwest of Nantes, the island of Noirmoutier is connected to the mainland by an ancient causeway called the Passage du Gois. The road is completely submerged at high tide, sometimes stranding tourists or clam-diggers who come looking for dinner when the waters have receded. In fact, because of tidal conditions forecast for Le Grand Départ this year, the cyclists will not ride across the slippery Gois, but instead cross the bridge built in 1971. But for visitors, arriving by Le Gois is a particularly thrilling way to access this seaside playground, only heightening the castaway feeling of the place.
Like a French Martha’s Vineyard, Noirmoutier is all about laid-back leisure: Think summer days under sail, slurping oysters at road-side shacks, biking along salt ponds, and plenty of beach lounging. One of the most magical spots is the Bois de la Chaise, a fragrant pine wood dotted with boulders and even a menhir, a standing stone erected in prehistoric times. As you set up a picnic on the rocks, you can peer down at the sandy crescent (Plage des Dames) scenically framed by a lighthouse. This iconic spot is where Noirmoutier first developed its reputation as a sunny seaside resort in the mid-19th century, and the Bois de la Chaise welcomed a new trend: good-for-your-health open water swimming. These days, vacationers use white clapboard cabins to store beach gear—as much a Noirmoutier symbol as the pier at Bois de la Chaise.
To the northwest of the island, the Plage de Luzeronde (extending south to Plage Luzeron) is another favorite beach. In the nearby port of l’Herbaudière, you can buy freshly-caught fish and crabs directly from fishermen’s boats. Here you’ll also find one of the best restaurants in France: The Michelin two-starred La Marine is a showcase for Noirmoutier’s terroir. Named “Best Chef of the Year 2017” by Gault & Millau, Chef Alexandre Couillon forages for local herbs and sources fish daily at the port’s auction. His signature dish is the “Erika” black oyster, marinated in squid ink—cheekily named in remembrance of a 1999 oil spill.
Couillon even grows his own potatoes, the prized Bonnotte variety. “The sandy soil is enriched with seaweed in the winter, nourishing a small sweet potato, with a hint of hazelnut flavor, which is harvested early in the season,” his wife Céline explains. She runs a bistro next door called La Table d’Elise, awarded a Michelin “Bib Gourmand” for great value. In July 2017, the couple also opened five elegant guest rooms in La Maison Moizeau.
Other island accommodations options include the cottage-style Hotel Les Prateaux, with a coveted location in the Bois de la Chaise, and Le Général d’Elbée, a four-star hotel and Nuxe spa housed inside an 18th-century building in Noirmoutier town.
In town, sample the island’s natural bounty at the weekly market. The marché is brimming with local specialties like buttery brioche, honey by Ruchers des Chouans, sea salt harvested by hand, smoked fish, and bottles of N'O, the island’s only craft beer. Pick up a straw bag, perfect for toting a book to the beach, or head to the Voilerie Burgaud boutique to buy a bag made from recycled sails. In the evening, head next door to Le 11 for an aperitif overlooking the water and the island’s famous “boat graveyard,” where abandoned and wrecked vessels have accumulated over the years.
There's a reason the big race starts on the island. Even if you miss Le Grand Départ— the Tour de France’s official starting line is formed by two large boulders at the edge of l'Epine and la Guérinière—Noirmoutier is ideal terrain for cyclists of all levels. The island is threaded with 50 miles of cycling paths, and bike rentals are widely available.
How to get there: Noirmoutier is about five hours by car from Paris. A train-bus combination, bookable online, is shorter: The high-speed train to Nantes is two hours, followed by a bus (1h45) to Noirmoutier town. Peak season is July and August, but early summer (May/June) and early autumn (September/October) are just as idyllic.