The Scottish Highlands boast a magical landscape of rivers, lochs, craggy peaks and isolated beaches. It is the place to go for fishing, walking, relaxing and switching off. Tucked away in these remote parts are some of Britain's finest hideaways offering stunning scenery, gourmet meals and plenty of peace and quiet.
Where to stay in Scottish Highlands
ARDANAISEIG HOTEL
Kilchrenan by Taynuilt, Argyll (01866 833 333; www.ardanaiseig-hotel.com). A beautifully furnished country house where notable touches include wellies by the front door for guests' use and, in the sitting room, a telescope trained on the seals in Loch Awe below. The food is excellent (fried sea bass with celeriac purée, prune-and-Armagnac soufflé). Owner Benjamin Gray is an antiquarian and patron of both music and theatre. In the summer, performances are staged in an amphitheatre built in the gardens. £
CASTLE STUART
Inverness (01463 790 745; fax: 792 604; www.castlestuart.com). The owner, Charles Stuart, spent 15 years renovating the 400-year old castle, which had been abandoned for 300 years. The castle is officially a 'tower house' with two circular towers linked by a central block. Inside, the furniture has been crafted from 400-year-old reclaimed oak into sturdy beds and all rooms have gas-powered open fires and soft furnishings. Castle Stuart was featured in our special feature on Scottish Castles. ££
EILEAN SHONA HOUSE
Acharacle, Argyll PH36 4LR, Scotland (01967 431 249; www.eileanshona.com). Fairly isolated at the edge of the privately owned Shona Island, the house is run by Lucy and Jim Edmonson, who also live on the island. It makes for a pleasant "at home" feel, and Eilean Shona House is the place to go if you are looking to escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. The house is rented as a whole and sleeps 11 adults and eight children. ££££
INVERLOCHY CASTLE
(01397 702 177; fax: 702 953; www.inverlochy.co.uk). Inverlochy, an idyllic Scottish country-house hotel built in 1863, is wonderfully peaceful. Ben Nevis, Britain's highest mountain, towers in front of the hotel, affording spectacular views. With 16 plush rooms and one suite, Inverlochy provides the sort of service that hotel connoisseurs expect. Inverlochy Castle was featured in our special feature on Scottish Castles. £££
ISLE OF ERISKA
Ledaig, near Oban (01631 720 371; email: office@eriska-hotel.co.uk). The Buchanan-Smiths have sensitively transformed their private island into a luxurious resort complete with golf course, tennis courts and swimming pool/spa. The wonderfully turreted and gabled house itself is a little heavy on the chintz, but has considerable charm and serves excellent meals. Closed from just after New Year until St Valentine's Day. £££
LOCH TORRIDON COUNTRY HOUSE HOTEL
Torridon, near Achnasheen (01445 791 242; www.lochtorridonhotel.com). This is a splendid baronial building in a magnificent setting. Comfortable rather than stylish, the hotel is run by two generations of the Gregory family, who play host to a devoted coterie of regulars. ££
MULLARDOCH HOUSE HOTEL
Glen Cannich, near Beauly (01456 415 460; www.mullhouse1.demon.co.uk). Nine miles down a single-track road from the village of Cannich, this is not a place you would stumble across by chance. With just eight bedrooms, it has the happy atmosphere of a house party where gourmet meals (perfect soufflé, Highland beef) are served each evening. ££
POOL HOUSE
Highland, Poolewe, Ross-shire (01445 781 272, www.poolhousehotel.com). Pool House is the perfect bet for a rather decadent weekend away à deux. A family run labour of love, Pool House maintains its intimacy by offering only five luxurious and highly spacious suites, each one individually decorated and furnished with wonderful one-off pieces. £££
SKIBO CASTLE
The Carnegie Club at Skibo Castle (01862 894 600; fax: 894601; www.carnegieclub.co.uk). Set amid 7,500 acres of forested estate and well hidden from public view near the small town of Dormoch, Skibo Castle deserves its reputation as one of the most exclusive hotels in the world. If you do visit, stay the whole weekend, as for non-Club members, the rules state that you may only ever visit once. Its pool is magnificent, built entirely of marble and housed in an elongated conservatory. There's also an 18-hole links golf course, salmon and trout fishing, hunting, falconry, clay-pigeon shooting, tennis, badminton, walking, rowing, canoeing, bird-watching, horse riding, off-road driving, snooker, archery, croquet, target shooting and mountain biking. Skibo Castle was featured in our special feature on Scottish Castles. ££££
SUMMER ISLES HOTEL
Achiltibuie, near Ullapool (01854 622 282; fax: 622 251; email: summerisleshotel@aol.com). The Summer Isles Hotel, just beyond the post office, comprises a glass-fronted main house and a collection of guest cottages. It occupies a wonderful position just above a sandy beach, with views across to the islands from which it takes its name, and offers a friendly atmosphere. There are 23 rooms including three suites, the only rooms provided with televisions. The restaurant's British cuisine, based largely on home-grown or locally caught ingredients has earned it a Michelin star. Local cruise boats conduct regular tours for seal-spotters and bird-watchers. Book in advance. Closed mid-October to Easter. ££
THE ALBANNACH
Baddidarroch, Lochinver (01571 844 407; fax: 844 285). This impressive, grey-stone house, which stands in walled gardens and incorporates the shell of a much earlier cottage, is a five-bedroom, no-television idyll on the outskirts of Lochinver. Most rooms command good views over the harbour of Lochinver; the panelled dining room looks out to the peak of Canisp. The moderately priced five-course set menu includes ingredients such as local scallops and Highland beef. Closed December to mid-March. ££
THE CEILIDH PLACE
14 West Argyle Street, Ullapool (01854 612 103; fax: 612 886; email: reservations@ceilidh.demon.co.uk). Set up as a coffee shop in 1970, the Céilidh Place developed into a centre for live music and has since spawned a bar, bistro, bakery, bookshop and hotel with immaculate, comfortable rooms. £
Where to eat out in Scottish Highlands
LA TAVERNA
Grampian Road, Aviemore, PH22 1PT (01479 810 683). Run by the Vastano family for over 30 years, La Taverna is much-loved Italian restaurant that serves the best pizza and pasta in the valley. Anne Vastano's beautiful alpine-style paintings decorate the wooden interior, while the vast selection of Italian spirits and beer is definitely worth checking out.
THE CROSS
Tweed Mill Brae, Ardbroilach Road, Kingussie, PH21 1LB (01540 661 166; www.thecross.co.uk). This award-winning restaurant housed in a converted 19th-century tweed mill serves the best modern Scottish cuisine in a picturesque riverside setting. Wild scrabster sea bass and line caught mackerel are as fresh as they come, while the hot chocolate fondant and chilli ice cream is an unlikely - yet delicious - combination.
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THE GLASS HOUSE
Grant Road, Grantown-on-Spey, Moray, PH26 3LD (01479 872 980; www.theglasshouse-grantown.co.uk). A highly acclaimed restaurant in an intimate setting, the Glass House has won a string of awards since it opened in 2005. The menu changes weekly, but the grilled black pudding with avocado and orange salad is a firm favourite.
THE MUSTARD SEED
16 Fraser Street, Inverness, IV1 1QY (01463 220220; www.themustardseedrestaurant.co.uk). Located in a converted church, The Mustard Seed has stunning views of the River Ness, and a warm and romantic atmosphere. The chef uses only local and seasonal ingredients, and the venison marinated in garlic and rosemary comes highly recommended.
THE POTTING SHED COFFEE SHOP
Inshriach Nursery, Aviemore, PH22 1QS (01540 651 287; www.drakesalpines.com). The Potting Shed's freshly baked cakes and toasty log fire makes it a favourite with the locals. Check out the wildflower gardens and views of the bird feeding tables where you can catch red squirrels, woodpeckers and pheasants tucking in.
What to see in Scottish Highlands
SIGHTS
CULLODEN
Culloden Moor, Inverness, IV2 5EU (0844 493 2159; www.nts.org.uk). Steeped in history, this rather eerie battlefield marks the site of the 1746 battle where the Jacobites fought to reclaim the throne of Britain. A theatre showing battle re-enactments and a guide kitted out in Jacobite regalia set the scene. Open daily.
URQUHART CASTLE
North and Grampian, IV63 6XJ (01456 450 551; www.historic-scotland.gov.uk). Urquhart Castle has a striking location overlooking the banks of Loch Ness and the views are breathtaking. The castle has a history of conflict stretching back over 700 years and despite most of it being in ruins, the visitor centre hosts an impressive collection of medieval artefacts found at the site, while a presentation explains its historical importance during the fight for Scottish independence. Open daily.
WILDLIFE
DOLPHIN CRUISES
Shore Street Quay, Shore Street, Inverness IV1 1NF (01463 717900; www.inverness-dolphin-cruises.co.uk). The Murray Firth is home to the most northerly dolphin colony in the world, and most of the dolphins seem curious enough to come up to the boats for a look. Also keep a look-out for porpoise seals, minke whales and puffins.
HIGHLAND WILDLIFE PARK
Kincraig, Kingussie, Inverness-shire, PH21 1NL (01540 661 270; www.highlandwildlifepark.org). Home to rare and extinct Scottish wildlife as well as endangered mountain and tundra animals from around the globe, the Highland Wildlife Park covers over 900 acres, so there's a lot to explore. Be sure to be there at the 2pm 'feeding time' for an up-close experience with wolves, red pandas and snow monkeys.
Things to do in Scottish Highlands
SPORT
WINTER SPORTS
CAIRNGORM SKI AREA
Aviemore, PH22 1RB (01479 861261; www.cairngormmountain.org.uk). Scotland's largest ski area is located in the Highlands and has a variety of runs to suit everyone from beginner to advanced, with plenty of provisions for snowboarders and cross-country fans. The season lasts from January to April, and Cairngorm is reached by a frequent bus service. A funicular railway to transport you to the slopes. The mountain range is also home to the UK's highest altitude restaurant, where, after a long day on the slopes, you can refuel and relax, tucking in to hearty local dishes and enjoying the panoramic view.
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SUMMER SPORTS
LOCH MORLICH AND LOCH INSH
Loch Morlich: Glenmore Forest Park, by Aviemore, Inverness-shire, PH22 1QU (01479 861221; www.lochmorlich.com); Loch Insh: Kincraig, Kingussie, Inverness-shire, PH21 1NU (01540 651 272; www.lochinsh.com). The Highlands' abundance of freshwater lochs makes it ideal for summer water sports. Companies by Lochs Morlich and Insh near the town of Aviemore run windsurfing, kayaking and sailing classes, as well as organising hill-walking and mountain-biking tours. Both Lochs have stunning valley views, and the vast sandy beaches of Loch Morlich are a treat if you're lucky enough to visit on a sunny day.
FISHING
The Highlands have some of the best fishing in the world and, although the region is renowned for freshwater varieties such as salmon, trout and pike, sea fishing can come up with species such as skate and tope in most costal areas. The River Spey (which runs the breadth of the Highlands) is the originator of the 'Spey casting' fly-fishing technique, and its untouched scenery and abundant salmon stocks make it one of the best rivers in the country for the sport. Because of the wide variety of species in Scottish waters, it's possible to fish all year round. Visit Scotland has a comprehensive list of fishing seasons, contact lists of instructors, ghillies and guides, as well as resources for equipment hire and fishing permits.
WALKS
For walks in the Assynt area, A Hillwalker's Guide to Sutherland and Walk Sutherland, both by Tom Strang, are published by the Highlands of Scotland Tourist Board and cost £4.95 each. The author is an expert mountain walker and climber who runs courses and tours from his lodge near Elphin (01854 666 203).
How to get to Scottish Highlands
AIRPORT
Fly to Inverness airport. The best way of exploring the area is by car. There are a number of car hire companies in Inverness including Budget (01463 713 333).
AIRLINES WITHIN THE UK
British Airways (0845 779 9977; www.british-airways.com) flies from Gatwick and easyJet (0870 600 0000; www.easyjet.com) flies from Luton.
When to go to Scottish Highlands
The summer is the best time to visit the Highlands. Winters are bitter and many hotels are closed. Be prepared for rainfall, even during the summer months and take anti-midge protection.