Why?
It’s the most perfectly preserved medieval town in England, and surely the prettiest. Lavenham’s heyday was the 15th century, when wool made it rich, but the fine Tudor buildings have aged gracefully: the higgledy-piggledy houses are painted in vibrant candy-shop colours. Indeed, it’s such a place of antiquity that Lovejoy frequently rocked up here in his Morris Minor. Not so fussed by history? Then come for the food: often freshly shot, seasonal and a celebration of the Suffolk countryside immortalised in Constable’s landscapes.
What to do
Mosey around, marvelling at the wonky charm. Start at Market Place, where you’ll find the Guildhall, one of the most impressive Tudor houses in the UK, timbered and carved with vines and lions. It’s a National Trust property, so you can swot up on local history: orphans once spun Lavenham’s signature woad-blue cloth in its 15th-century prime (£6.80, children £3.40; nationaltrust.org.uk/lavenham-guildhall). Next door is the mustard-yellow Little Hall, a 14th-century merchant’s house filled with books, art and antiques (open from Saturday until October 28; £3.50; littlehall.org.uk).
Head down the hill by any route: they’re all charming. Shilling Street is the least explored by tourists, while the well-preserved High Street has a posh butcher and shops selling curios and art. At the bottom, Water Street is painted all the shades of a setting Suffolk sun. Look out for De Vere House, which starred as Harry Potter’s birthplace in the hugely successful film franchise.
Then venture to the edge of the village, to St Peter and St Paul’s Church, a vast and splendid edifice for so small a place. It dates back to Norman times, but has been expanded and elaborated on throughout the centuries: a tower and chapels were added, as well as decorated windows and tombs for the clothiers who contributed to the building.
After drinking in the atmosphere, sip something stronger in the village’s historic pubs: the Swan and the Lavenham Greyhound are equally wonderful, imbued with the scent of log fires. Or cosy up with cake. Lavenham Blue Vintage Tea Rooms does homemade scones piled on granny’s-house crockery (afternoon tea £15.50; lavenhambluetearooms.com).
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Walk off the carbs on the four-mile route of the former railway track. The last train left in 1965; now the line is a nature reserve, cutting through woods with views of Lavenham’s church to the village of Long Melford, another delightful old wool town set on the Stour. There are rich vintage pickings to be found at its antiques shops and centres, as well as the Long Melford Antique & Vintage Fair, held at the Old School every last weekend of the month.
Where to stay
Made up of three restored Tudor houses and the Wool Hall, set around courtyard gardens, the Swan has traditional rooms (some with four-posters — ask before you book), the Airmen’s Bar and a great spa: you can submerge yourself in any weather in a steamy sunken pool on the terrace (doubles from £125, B&B; theswanatlavenham.co.uk).
The 13th-century Lavenham Priory is open to the public during the day; in the grounds are two self-catering properties with rolltop baths and canopied beds (two nights from £365; lavenhampriory.co.uk).
Where to eat
The Great House is a restaurant with rooms serving dishes such as saddle of rabbit with a port sauce and Atlantic wild turbot in a herb and sesame crust (two-course lunch £21, à la carte mains about £27; greathouse.co.uk).
The Lavenham Greyhound is a cosy pub with a drinks list that includes artisanal gins. The food is excellent value: punchy torched sea bass and red lentils was £9 (lavenhamgreyhound.com).