Of all the Greek islands, Santorini is the most famous, most photographed and most dreamt about. Over three millennia ago, a volcanic eruption blew the heart out of what was later named Strongili, “the round island”, creating one of the most awe-inspiring vistas in the world — a crescent of towering black and red cliffs plunging into the Aegean Sea.
The eruption also buried the Minoan city of Akrotiri under ash, leaving its streets, houses, and stunning frescoes undisturbed for thousands of years. Ancient Thera is even more dramatic still, cresting a sheer mountain 365 metres above the beaches of Kamari and Perissa. But most people don’t visit Santorini for archaeology. They come to bake on black-sand beaches, pose by blue-domed churches, sip exceptional local wines, and watch the sunset gild the sunken caldera. Despite the high volume of honeymooners, bucket-listers and cruise ships visiting the island, Santorini maintains its magnetic allure.
This article contains affiliate links, which may earn us revenue
What to do
Many of the treasures unearthed at Akrotiri and Ancient Thera are on display at the small but absorbing Museum of Prehistoric Thira (located in the otherwise underwhelming capital, Fira). Catching the sunset in the village of Oia is a cliché activity in Santorini that’s best avoided in July and August, when you’ll be jostling for an inch of cliffside space with thousands of tourists. Instead, settle in to watch the evening show with a chilled glass of Assyrtiko at Sigalas winery; or hike to the hidden chapel of Panagia Theoskepasti, carved into the rockface below the abandoned citadel of Skaros.
Many companies offer boat tours to the smouldering volcanic islands of Nea Kameni, where you can hike up the active crater (don’t wear flip-flops), and Palia Kameni, where you can swim in not-very-hot springs. If you can afford it, skip the group tours and charter your own sailboat; ask the skipper to take you to secret spots for caldera cliff-diving without the crowds (the floating chapel of Agios Nikolaos is a prime spot).
Advertisement
• Best things to do in Santorini
Where to go
The most unique places to stay in Santorini are traditional yposkafa — smooth, arched structures tunnelled into the soft pumice landscape. Naturally cool in summer, these curvaceous cave houses have arched doorways and windows to frame the sea views. Perivolas, a landmark cliffside hotel on the edge of Oia, is the best example of this vernacular architecture.
Most of Santorini’s luxury hotels are lined up along the caldera in the villages of Oia and Imerovigli. If you’re on honeymoon or madly in love, this is probably where you’ll end up staying — we recommend The Vasilicos or Vora Villas for privacy and pampering. But beware: the steep steps — there are lots and lots of them — and cliff-hanging infinity pools are definitely not suitable for young kids or anyone with mobility issues.
Away from the caldera, Pyrgos makes a great base: this perfectly preserved village in the centre of the island has both enviable views and restaurants. Families and those on tighter budgets gravitate towards the beaches of Kamari and Perissa, which are tightly packed with beach bars, water sports, and tourist-only tavernas. Istoria, a smart design hotel on black-sand Perivolos beach, is an upmarket exception to the rule.
• Best hotels in Santorini
• Best cave hotels in Santorini
• Best villas in Santorini
Food and drink
Advertisement
Santorini’s volcanic soil and windswept landscapes do not yield much apart from succulent cherry tomatoes, white aubergines, briny capers, and nutty-yellow fava beans. But the mineral-rich terroir produces exceptional wines, notably the crisp white Assyrtiko and sweet, velvety Vinsanto. Some of the island’s many wineries offer tempting food and wine pairings: Vassaltis (non-traditional tapas in a striking modern setting); Sigalas (a six-course dégustation menu served in the vineyard); and Venetsanos (tastings on a spectacular clifftop terrace). The locally brewed Donkey beer is also surprisingly good.
Fine-dining options abound on Santorini, from candlelit verandas on the caldera to haute cave-houses in five-star hotels. Selene — the first restaurant to champion Cycladic ingredients using cutting-edge techniques back in the 1980s — remains a culinary landmark. Cute as a blue-and-white button, Aktaion has been serving classic local dishes, such as tomato fritters and octopus with fava beans, since 1922. Quintessentially Greek fish tavernas line the port of Ammoudi, just below Oia; Dimitris is a reliable favourite here. For fresh seafood, also try To Psaraki, overlooking the marina in Vlychada, or Giorgaros in Akrotiri, where lunch comes straight off the owner’s fishing boat. For cocktails, hit up Mary-Kay’s funky little bar or the dusky pink courtyard of Oia Vineyart (both in Oia), where the locals go for a nightcap after they finish work.
Don’t miss
Every step of the cliff-edge hike from Fira to Oia affords mind-blowing vistas in all directions. If you’re up for exploring less-trodden trails, book a tour with Santorini Walking Tours; their knowledgeable guides open up all kinds of insider experiences. The inland villages of Emborio, Pyrgos, and Exo Gonia are where you’ll find the soul of Santorini — smooth, sculptural houses, candlelit churches, and old ladies sorting foraged greens on their whitewashed stoops.
Santorini’s beaches are photogenic, but not especially accessible. Don’t ignore the warning signs at Red Beach — those crimson cliffs are prone to landslides. The otherworldly rock formations at Vlychada and the black lava cliffs of Kouloumbos beach make equally theatrical backdrops for a dip. For castaway beaches and a taste of pre-tourism Santorini, take a day trip to the small island of Thirassia, just a ten-minute boat ride from Oia but a world apart.
Know before you go
The currency is the euro. Santorini is not cheap – you’ll pay a hefty premium to eat, drink, or stay along the caldera. Venture inland to pretty villages such as Emborio, Messaria, and Finikia and you’ll still find a smattering of authentic Greek tavernas frequented by locals.
Advertisement
Renting a car is useful, but traffic and parking can be a nightmare (the narrow streets were designed for donkeys, not coaches) and driving along the twisting cliff roads is hairy.
Allow plenty of time to get to Santorini airport and port before your departure, especially if you’re visiting the island in peak season. Santorini has one of the longest tourist seasons of all the Greek islands. To avoid the crowds, the best time to visit is April or October.
Take me there
Inspired to visit Santorini but yet to book your trip? Here are the best packages from Jet2 Holidays and British Airways. These are the best tours of Santorini from our trusted partners.
Sign up for the Times Travel Newsletter here.