FASHION WEEK

Why Makeup Artist Pat McGrath Travels with 75 Bags During Fashion Week

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By Hiroko Masuike/The New York Times/Redux.

September means different things to different people: for most, it signals the last days of summer and kids going back to school. But, for the New York fashion industry, it means showtime! This week, Fashion Week rolls into town and brings with it a slew of fashion editors, show producers, stylists, makeup artists, models, designers, interns, party promoters, and various other hangers-on. In a six-part series, I spoke to some of my favorite fashion folk about what #NYFW means to them. (And F.Y.I., after New York Fashion Week, the shows move to London, Milan, and, finally, Paris. So it’s really more of a Fashion Month.) Check back this week as I discuss what happens backstage, who are the backstage divas, what people really think of bloggers, and what Rihanna’s stylist thinks is her most daring look to date.

First up: Pat McGrath, Instagram: @patmcgrathreal

Vogue called her the most influential makeup artist in the world. But to McGrath, the British-born creative-design director of Procter & Gamble Beauty (working on Covergirl, Dolce & Gabbana, The Makeup, and Max Factor), she’s just painting faces. Her career started in the early 90s in London when she introduced her vibrant style—think club-kid couture—to magazines like i-D. Later, she met the legendary photographer Steven Meisel, whom she collaborates with on his seminal images in major campaigns and fashion magazines around the world. At Fashion Week, she’s responsible for the faces at Prada, Miu Miu, Michael Kors, Givenchy, and Dolce & Gabbana, among other brands, which means she has a packed schedule that rivals the top models whose faces she is famous for decorating.

VF.com: Doesn’t it feel like we’re going back to school? What’s your routine for getting ready for Fashion Week?

Pat McGrath: At the end of summer, I go on a detox because I know I need a clear mind for Fashion Week. You need a lot of energy and the ability to focus, in preparation for this craziness. I go to the gym, too, just to make sure I have the endurance to keep up with everything. I get as much sleep as possible, because by Paris I won’t be getting much. And then I go over my supplies and make sure I have every single piece of makeup that I can think of that I might need. I look for anything new and inspiring, in the worlds of makeup, but also jewelry and décor. I never know what will inspire me.

What are supplies that you must re-fill?

The things you use the most of is foundation, because that’s the base. And on the other extreme, I start calling my friends at Swarovski to get crystals. Some seasons I don’t need to use them, and some seasons I need a ton, so I have to make sure I’m prepared for everything. And lastly, lashes. Lashes from all over the world. I start calling those in in July.

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Let’s talk about designers. When do they start talking to you about ideas for makeup?

If you’re lucky you get a week. Of course we wish we could get it earlier, but a lot of it is spontaneous. That’s why I’m hoarding 26 trunks of foundation, crystals, and lashes. Just in case.

How big is your Fashion Week entourage?

My team can be as big as 50 during the busiest days of Fashion Week. I can travel with up to 75 bags of products and materials. And between shows I personally travel on motorbike to speed through traffic and get to the next venue.

Is there a most requested look?

Every city is different, which is fantastic. There’s always an evolution that happens, and that’s interesting to watch. That’s the one thing we love about our job: you can’t ever think you’ve got it all figured out or that you know everything. You can’t be lazy in fashion. You’re always going to be surprised.

I remember when you and I first met years ago: it was a pre-digital time and you carried, literally, hundreds of reference books. Have you digitized your references?

Yes. The majority is now digitized, but I still travel with three trunks of my most trusted books and inspiration notebooks. Thank God for the iPad. That’s another thing I always have in my trunk: a Wi-Fi hot spot, because sometimes the Internet can be dodgy and I need a strong signal.

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Talk to me about backstage.

Adrenaline is running, for sure. But at the same time, you have to be calm. The trick is to keep everything organized with military-like precision. Every single station is set up like a small army. So it’s skin first, then eyebrows, then jewels: it’s an assembly line.

Who are some of your favorite runway girls?

I can’t even begin to pick my favorite girls. There are so many! I will say it’s more like a homecoming because I love so many of the people I work with, and we’re all together in this frenzy.

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How has social media affected your job?

I love my social media. I love Instagram and Twitter, and now I’m on Periscope. In some ways, I’m working harder now than ever because I want to capture images of backstage and it’s great to be able to share that with the public, and share that with everyone else in the industry. It’s also been a rewarding experience to see how people react to our work, and I also get to see how some people translate these runway looks into their real lives. It’s a window into what I’m doing and my references. It’s like my own magazine, my own personal mood board.

But you haven’t posted recently, Pat.

I’m on a little hiatus because when Fashion Week starts I’m going to clog the feed. Consider this your warning!